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Deemed as a cousin to Paris, Montreal displays a distinctive mix of dichotomies: Old World openness and New York-style bluntness;
glass-swathed skyscrapers and historic neighborhoods; French and
English languages. In fact, this is the world's second-largest
French-speaking city. Around two-thirds claim French as their first language. Half of the remaining third chooses English while the other segment, composed primarily of immigrants, speaks neither.
Originally a French colony, the British took it out right from under the French's feet in 1760, and their resentment fermented well into the 20th century. The Quiet Revolution of the '60's ignited social and economic change, including a Renaissance of French culture. Over the next few decades, Francophone-centric laws were passed, increasing the use of the language. Clues to British rule do still stand however in 19th-century mansions and Victorian homes.
One can absorb the distinct identity of Montreal via its history by strolling along the cobbled streets of the Old Montreal district, or visiting the Musee d'Archeologie et d'Histoire de Montreal where artifacts from the city's founding reveal its early days. For a trip to times past, a horse-drawn jaunt on a caleche, a small carriage, is a relaxing and romantic way to see the town. Must-see sites include the neo-Gothic Basilique Notre-Dame, the posh shopping center of Cours Mont-Royal, the progressive Musee d'Art Contemporain Montreal, and the scenic Vieux-Port pedestrian esplanade that snakes along the St.
Lawrence River.
Outside of the tourist enclaves though, the authentic character of this romantic city thrives in its ethnic neighborhoods, such as Little Italy, Chinatown and the multicultural, cafe-filled Plateau Mont-Royal. Boulevard St-Laurent serves as the primary artery of city life, with boutiques, bars and restaurants pumping throughout the night, and also divides Montreal into a clean line of east and west.
Montreal's personality cycles with the seasons, peaking with the
saxophone-sultry nights at the Festival International de Jazz de
Montreal in the summer. Fall time brings gradations of warm colors in the leaves of the majestic maple, and the blustery winters are made bearable with outings to the Laurentian Mountains ski slopes or browsing the Underground City's maze of entertainment and shopping options. In spring, French bistros pull their tables back out to the sidewalks, and boisterous street fairs and festivals gear up for summer catharsis.
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